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A new take on ‘farm to table’: Coffee beans hand-picked by NoFo RoCo staff in Guatemala now roasting in Southold

Courtesy photo North Fork Roasting Co.

Coffee beans straight from Antigua, Guatemala are now roasting at the North Fork Roasting Company in Southold — and owners Jess Dunne and Jennilee Morris helped pick the beans themselves during a weeklong trip earlier this year.

“Probably half the beans in those bags, my hands have touched,” said Dunne, referring to the 150-pound bags of coffee beans they received last week. “That’s just the coolest thing, to me.”

Jess Dunne, right, and Jennilee Morris, left, spent a week working at a Guatemalan coffee farm to get an up-close look at the harvesting process. Courtesy photo.
Jess Dunne, right, and Jennilee Morris, left, spent a week working at a Guatemalan coffee farm to get an up-close look at the harvesting process. Courtesy photo.

Dunne and Morris traveled to Guatemala and spent a week living on a coffee farm in February to help harvest coffee through a co-op program created to help Guatemalan farmers combine forces to sell their product.

There, they spent their time immersed in the daily life of a Guatemalan coffee farm, getting acquainted with each step of the laborious coffee-harvesting process. Their general manager Brianna Paige went as well, and spent an entire month on the farm.

“It was incredible, to learn where the beans come from and all the work that goes into them. It was extremely special, roasting the beans for the first time,” Dunne said. “It’s a really amazing way to bring yourself back to the experiences we had there.”

Ripe red coffee cherries, which hold coffee beans inside. Courtesy photo
Ripe red coffee cherries, which hold coffee beans inside. Courtesy photo.

Coffee beans are contained in red and green berries called “cherries.” After the cherries are picked, the beans are typically removed from the cherry and dried. The beans are then milled and processed.

“We have two bags of what’s called a ‘natural process,’ where two of the farmers were trying something different this year and left the berry on during the drying process,” Dunne explained. “It’s really great, it smells extremely fruity when roasting. I had it iced today, actually, and it was really great.”

They received 12 total bags of beans.

“I’m not sure how long it’s going to last us, since this is the height of our season,” Dunne said. “But it’s still pretty great.”

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They received 12 bags of beans, two of which were processed “naturally.” Photo: Courtney Blasl.

The duo threw a party — with invites that aptly titled it a “Fiesta” — to celebrate the arrival of the beans at the Southold coffee shop.

“It’s been a few months since we went and didn’t even know when the beans were going to come,” Morris said. “It was worth the wait. We found out about a week before that they were on their way and we knew we had to throw a party.”

Some attendees decked out in Guatemalan attire and received a free bag of the Guatemalan beans. And while some made a quick trip to Party City before the event for their costumes, one woman had several items that were a little more authentic.

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“These [pantalones] were originally made for men, but I was a bit of a rebel back in the day and turned them into a skirt,” Sherry Thirlby said. Photo: Courtney Blasl.
“I lived in Antigua, right near where this coffee was grown, for about six months out of college,” said Sherry Thirlby of Southold. She let her friends borrow a few items to wear to the party, including a huipil, a large woven belt and a pair of pantalones, which she wore herself. “These were originally made for men, but I was a bit of a rebel back in the day and turned them into a skirt.”

Thirlby, who frequents the coffee shop, was excited when she heard about the beans from Guatemala. “It’s a cool to have a little taste of where I’ve been. I’m hoping to get to go back, now that we’ve retired.”

The event featured a mariachi band, an authentic handmade tortilla station and a full taco bar.

Employees of the roastery prepared fresh tortillas. Courtesy photo: North Fork Roasting Company.
Employees of the roastery prepared fresh tortillas. Courtesy photo: North Fork Roasting Company.

Dunne and Morris hope to return to Guatemala next year.

“We’d really like to go back, stay with the same people we did before, since we loved them,” Dunne said. “And hopefully this will open up many more opportunities for direct trade,” she said, adding she would like to eventually connect with a coffee farm in Columbia.

“Out here on the North Fork, everything is about farm to table, and we’d like this to be just another continuation of that,” she said. “It’s a great start.”

Courtesy photo: North Fork Roasting Company.
Courtesy photo: North Fork Roasting Company.
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Courtney Blasl
Courtney is a freelance photographer, videographer, web designer and writer. She is a lifelong Riverhead resident.